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A letter from Marie Antoinette to Maria Theresa: Louis XVI is innoculated against smallpox

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 image: Louis XVI being innoculated, from Versailles: Countdown to Revolution
image credit: tiny-librarian 

After the death of Louis XV, it was decided that the king and several other members of the royal family would undergo a smallpox innoculation to help protect themselves from the same disease. After her husband underwent the procedure, Marie Antoinette wrote to her mother:

Marie Antoinette to her mother, Maria Theresa, 27 June 1774: 
... the King, my brothers, and the comtesse d'Artois were inoculated [against smallpox] on Saturday; since then they have missed taking a walk at least two or three times a day. The King had a rather high fever for three days; on the day before yesterday the eruption started and the fever went down so that it is now quite gone. He will not have many pustules, but he has some very remarkable ones on his nose, on the wrists, and chest; they are already beginning to turn white.

[The doctors] have made four small incisions; these little openings are suppurating properly, which showed the doctors that the inoculation was completely successful. 


"It is the head of Mme. de Lamballe they wish to show you."

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image credit: my collection

A vintage postcard from the waxwork museum, Musée Grévin, depicting the infamous scene of September 3rd in the Temple, when a mob attempted to show Marie Antoinette the head of the Princesse de Lamballe. Here is the event, as described in Madame Royale's memoirs:
"Several officers of the National Guard and some municipals arrived; the first desired that my father should show himself at the window. The municipals fortunately opposed this; but my father, having asked what was happening, a young officer replied: "Well, if you want to know, it is the head of Mme. de Lamballe they wish to show you." My mother was seized with horror; that was the sole moment when her firmness abandoned her."

Jules Gervais-Courtellemont's autochromes of life at Versailles

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Jules Gervais-Courtellemont (1863-1931) was a French photographer who is most well known for his color autochromes of World War I, which were so popular that Courtellemont had them published in a 12 volume series. In addition to his photography of the battlefield, Courtellemont also took many photographs of scenes of homes, landscapes and people. His composition style, especially when taking photographs of people, was often intimate but deliberately artistic. Courtellemont loved using symbolism, such as ensuring that certain colors or people were distanced or contrasted with others, to create an appearance of structured--and yet realistic--life.

My favorite Courtellemont autochromes are, perhaps not surprisingly, his photographs of some historical players at Versailles, taken in 1925. Unfortunately, I've only been able to find a few of these stunning autochromes without watermarks, but I hope the beauty of these photographs still shines through.

 
Players Portray Life at the Queen’s Hamlet 
image credit: my collection


 
Actors in Period Costumes Perform Among the Flowerbeds of Versailles
image credit: allposters

 
Players Reenact Life at the Queen's Hamlet
image credit: fine art america

 
Costumed Actors Look Toward the Chateau of Versailles from the Garden
image credit: allposters

 

Blindman's Bluff as played in the time of Marie Antoinette
image credit: ebay

 
Players Sit in Gardens Outside Thatched Cottages in the Petit Trianon
image credit: allposters

 

Players at the Temple of Love
image credit: art.com





Currently Reading!

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There are few things I love more than reading! Especially--and I'm sure this comes as a complete surprise--about Marie Antoinette and anything to do with her world. As you can probably tell by the Upcoming Titles sidebar, there are plenty of interesting Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI and French Revolution books being published in the 2013-2014 season. I'm always eager to get my hands on something new, which brings me to the two titles I am currently reading!


Louis XVI and the French Revolution (published by McFarland in May 2013) by Alison Johnson looks at the character and experiences of the Louis XVI, who has often been derided as the "weak king" who--depending on your point of view--failed to fully stop or fully support the revolution. Johnson's book takes a look at what we know of Louis XVI's personal reaction to the events which occured during his reign, as well as many of the experiences and actions which help shape the course of events that determined his ultimate fate.


Confessions of Marie Antoinette: a Novel (available in September 2013) by is the third chapter in Juliet Grey's Marie Antoinette trilogy. The final novel begins with the October Days and follows Marie Antoinette's final years as she, her husband nd their family are forced to contend with the changing tides of revolution. This final book is the sequel to Becoming Marie Antoinette and Days of Splendor, Days of Sorrow.

I'm eager to finish both of these titles and eventually share my thoughts on them.

What's on your currently reading list?

An illustration from Queen of Sorrow by Sachiko Oba

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 image credit: my scan/collection

The above image is an illustration from Queen of Sorrow by Sachiko Oba, first published in 1959. Queen of Sorrow is a Japanese adaptation of Stefen Zweig's biography of Marie Antoinette, this time for younger readers. This gorgeous, somber image is one of the few color illustrations included in the book. The soft colors and lines, slightly stronger towards the queen's face and becoming softer and less defined towards the outer area of the picture, give the illustration an airy, almost dream-like feel. 

The illustration appears to have inspired another artist, the famed Makoto Takahashi, who provided the illustrations for another adaptation of Stefen Zweig's book--again called Queen of Sorrow.

image credit: bisenco

Takahashi's drawing has a much rounder, more shoujo manga style. Unfortunately, I've been unable to find a scan or larger photograph of this particular illustration. This particular biography, published in the early 1970s, is very hard to find. There have been some re-releases of Takahashi's illustrated books in recent years--I hope this trend continues with this particular volume!


I'll end with a screencap I took from the last episode of The Rose of Versailles anime adaption, which immediately reminded me of both Queen of Sorrow illustrations. All three images share some interesting similarities. All three depict the queen seated in profile, seated in front of her prison walls. All three images use color contrasts to full effect: the purple dress contrasts with the bleak, drab color of her chair and the prison walls; her hair, bleached from sorrow in all three images, adds a final, sorrowful contrast to these striking depictions of the imprisoned queen.

A colorization of Norma Shearer as Marie Antoinette

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It was a rainy, boring afternoon--the perfect time to procrastinate by coloring a photo or two. I finished this colorization of Norma Shearer that I began the other day. It's one of my favorite stills--even in black and white, it just screams "glamour!" For my colorization, I attempted to stay true to the actual color scheme of this gown, which is pink/blue/green--although I'm not sure about the real color of her her hat, feathers or hair ribbons.

image credit: my colorization; my collection

'There was none so haunted as Trianon...'

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image credit: gallica.bnf.fr 
"Thérèse had lived in many places, but there was none so haunted as Trianon, or as vibrant with memory. Its haunting was a wistful and compelling call to linger, as if the murmuring poplars and cedars entreated one to stay forever. The soul seemed drawn into an enchanted realm where time itself dallied. She breathed in the scented air. No one would ever live there for long in peace; no one could ever again make it a dwelling place, for the person who had enlivened Trianon with her own spontaneous magic was gone from the world. Trianon was no longer a home, but a tangible dream of lost happiness."
—Madame Royale by Elena Maria Vidal

This quote from Madame Royale is one that I think about a lot--it's one of those passages that really sticks to your mind long after you've finished the book. I was browsing through some vintage photographs of the Trianon and the image, of two women walking through the hamlet, immediately reminded me of this quote.

Are there any book quotes about Marie Antoinette, or the Trianon, that stick out for you? 


A new cover for Marie Antoinette: Princess of Versailles by Kathryn Lasky

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Marie Antoinette: Princess of Versailles by Kathryn Lasky, part of Scholastic's The Royal Diaries series, is easily one of the most frequently named "gateway novels" that leads someone into an interest in Marie Antoinette, the French Revolution, or even an overall interest in history! It comes as no surprise that the book has been included in at least two of Scholastic's international "diary book" series, such as England's My Royal Story and the French Mon Histoire.



The newest 'version' of Lasky's popular historical novel is due to be released in the November of this year. Scholastic recently revived their beloved Dear America series with a new look and new books--although I've yet to see any indication that there will be new Royal Diaries books anytime soon, maybe this new release will at least put the idea on the table!


And here is the new cover, fresh from Amazon.com. What do you think? Personally, I love everything but her face... it looks too flat--almost featureless, at least to me. I do love the designs on the bottom of the image, because they give the new cover a 'royal' look without necessarily going for all the pomp and circumstance of the original series' covers. Of course, all that pomp and circumstance is what made the books stand out on the shelves for me... but we'll see how this new edition holds up once it's released!







Marie Antoinette as a Paper Doll

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It may come as no surprise that Marie Antoinette, well known as the "Queen of Fashion," is a popular subject for paper dolls. The "paper doll" as we recognize it today primarily developed during the 19th century (although 18th century paper dolls, primarily made for shops and milliners to show off their wares, do exist) when paper doll sets featuring famous women such as Queen Victoria and popular ballerina dancers became the go-to choice for girls looking for some fashionable paper toys.

Marie Antoinette, as both a romantic and fashionable figure, has naturally been a popular choice for paper doll artists from the 19th century until today. I've gathered up some examples of the more interesting paper dolls based on and inspired by the famous queen of France. Let's take a look! 

In the late 19th century, paper dolls--like postcards--were also used as a form of advertising. This 1880s Marie Antoinette paper doll, produced by McLaughlin's Coffee Company, is being depicted with her hands bound, on her way to the guillotine. A rather morbid way to advertise coffee!
 
 image source: ebay

Not every 19th century apper doll of the queen was made as an dvertising ploy. This romantic paper doll was published by the Frederick A. Stokes Company as  part of the 'Famous Queens' series.

The paper dolls which are considered to be the most sought-after by collecators are typically the gorgeous, detailed hand-painted dolls which were most popular in the mid-to-late 19th century. This Marie Antoinette doll set was hand-drawn and hand painted with fine detail in watercolors. The set, which was recently sold at auction, went for an amazing $2,100!

 image: Theriaults

The1938 release of MGM's Marie Antoinette, a grand costume drama on an epic scale, has also inspired a line of Marie Antoinette paper dolls. This modern paper doll set, designed by Brenda Sneathen Mattox, features full-color dresses inspired by Gilbert Adrian's sumptuous gowns.

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox


image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox


Some modern paper doll artists decide to go with a more fanciful view of Marie Antoinette's 18th century garb. The following set designed by Barb Rausch, featuring Marie Antoinette with her "lover" (quote emphasis mine) Axel Fersen, features wonderfully detailed gowns that would like right at home in a colorful candy shop!

 image: Barb Rausch

 image: Barb Rausch 

One of the most popular--or certainly the most widely recognizable--paper dolls of Marie Antoinette come from artist Tom Tierney, whose paper doll book is filled with gorgeous gowns inspired by some of the queen's many memorable ensembles.


image: Tom Tierney

  
image: Tom Tierney

image: Tom Tierney

I'll end with a quirky--and, yes, morbid!--modern paper doll designed by artist Lisa Perrin.

image: Lisa Perrin
 













Illustrations of Marie Antoinette from George Washington's World by Genevieve Foster

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George Washington's World by Genevieve Foster is a children's book which covers the life and times of George Washington. The book is filled with wonderful illustrations, including a number of illustrations of Marie Antoinette. Although the book's portrayal of Marie Antoinette is frustrating (there is a passage where they have her saying something akin to, "Those peasants don't know how good they have it! It's hard to be queen!"--absolutely out of character for her) the illustrations by Genevieve Foster are certainly worth a look.

(All of the following are my scans; credit goes to Genevieve Foster and Charles Scribner's Sons)






An advertisement featuring Madame Elisabeth and Louis XVI

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It's unusual to see anyone from the core royal family, other than Marie Antoinette (and to a lesser extent, Louis XVI) used for advertising. But this Famous Women card series, produced by Chocolat Poulain Orange, is one of the few to feature that often overlooked figure in the life of the king and queen: the king's sister, Madame Elisabeth.

image: my collection

The image is a wonderful depiction of the love and devotion Madame Elisabeth felt for her brother. As she wrote to the marquise de Bombelles in 1787: "Ah! who can take a keener interest than I in my brother's happiness?

An engraving of the duchesse d'Angoulême

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A stunning colored engraving of the duchesse d'Angoulême by Augustin Legrand.

image credit: ebay.fr

This engraving was first published in 1815, likely before or after Napoleon's "Hundred Days," in honor of the restoration of the monarchy. Indeed, many symbols of the Bourbons and the French monarchy can be found in the border of the print, in addition to Marie-Thérèse all-white ensemble. The duchesse was a particular popular topic for engravings during the Restoration--which may be because she was, amongst all of the returning Bourbons, the one most cemented in French memory as the "orphan princess of the Temple."

Marie Antoinette and Versailles '73

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I was googling today for any new tidbits or information that I could share on this blog, and I came across a review by Alison Freer of xojane.com, who took a look at Versailles '73, a documentary about a little-known, but at the time widely publicized, fashion event that helped provide funding to a Versailles in disrepair. I have never heard of this event before but it sounds like an interesting look at the clash of American and French designers in an extravagant and very 'Versailles' event. Who can resist a fashion battle at the former palace of the queen of fashion herself?



xojane:

I think it’s the combination of pure glamour and certain doom that initially hooked me on the legend of Marie Antoinette. From the glittering parties she attended to the tragedy of her lonely death, her story hit all the right buttons. So when I heard about a fashion documentary called Versailles ‘73, I was instantly intrigued. What in the hell was happening at Versailles in 1973 that could possibly be worthy of an entire documentary? And being a superfan of 1970s fashion and Marie Antoinette, how did I not already know about it?
The answer is that a LOT of self-professed fashionistas don’t know the story of what went down at Versailles in the fall of ’73. And it’s a shame, because the story to be told is one of triumph -- a great moment in time that just so happened to put American fashion firmly on the map.

In 1973, Versailles was in terrible disrepair -- plagued by leaks, termites and worms. American fashion publicist powerhouse and CFDA creator Eleanor Lambert cooked up the idea of a charity fashion show (meant to help fund repairs) featuring 5 French designers and 5 American designers, to be held at Versailles in the Royal Opera...
...Versailles '73 is a brilliant retelling of a fierce moment in time when American fashion was finally looked upon favorably. Before the show at Versailles, American sportswear was really just an afterthought in fashion circles. But from that point forward, American fashion was a in the spotlight in a HUGE way. The film is also an excellent primer on the 10 designers involved, and paints a compelling picture of the changing times of the early 1970s.

Versailles '73 is currently available on DVD and digital video. I'll definitely be giving it a look!

18th Century Treasures at the Detroit Institute of Arts

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The Detroit Institute of Arts, whose priceless collection may be at risk due to Detroit's recent declaration of bankruptcy, is a veritable treasure trove for anyone with an interest in the 18th century. On any given afternoon, a visitor to one of the museum's 18th century sections can view exquisite portraits, silver beauty cases that once graced the boudoirs of fashionable ladies, and painstakingly handcrafted furniture--and that's just including the pieces that are currently on view!

Among the museum's wonderful 18th century collection are a few items that I consider especially dear to my heart--items, and this will likely not come as a surprise, with some connection to Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, or other people from 18th century France.

image: my photograph 

A miniature bust of Louis XV, circa 1755, created in Belgium. 

This small sculpture, on loan from the National Museum of American History,  was made after a larger piece by Jean-Baptiste Lemoyne. Lemoyne was a sculptor best known for his Rococo, free-form sculpting style, which was sometimes heralded as the "downfall" of classical sculpting which had a stricter composition. Unfortunately, many of his important pieces (such as an equestrian statue of Louis XV created for a military academy) are no longer here--some were destroyed during the French Revolution, while others have simply disappeared. Although the original version of this particular bust seems to have disappeared, another sculpture of Louis XV by Lemoyne is safe in the collection of the Chateau de Versailles.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A bronze statue of Bacchus and a Young Satyr, circa 1640, by an unknown artist. 

This sculpture of Bacchus (the Roman name for Dionysus) was purchased by Louis XIV in 1707, probably for the palace of Versailles; it passed into the collection of Louis XV and Louis XVI, where it remained until his death in 1793. Something that always crosses my mind when I see relatively small art pieces that were once housed in palaces: in the grand scheme of things, was it an important piece? Did anyone ever stop to look at it, among the many pieces of art in the many rooms of the many palaces? Or was it just another statue to gather dust until someone could be bothered to wipe it down?

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

 
A portrait of Louis-Philippe, Duc d'Orleans, saluting his army on the battlefield, 1757, by Alexandre Roslin. 

Louis Philippe I, father of Philippe Égalité, became the duc d'Orleans and the First Prince of the Blood after his father's death in 1752. Although he was later known for his numerous mistresses, Louis Philippe first distinguished himself during the War of the Austrian Succession. This portrait is an excellent example of the military portraits that many high-ranking nobles would have commissioned after returning from battle. Perhaps Louis Philippe, who had by this time settled into the scandals of court life, wanted to be reminded of his glory days on the battlefield.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

Madame Henriette de France as a Vestal Virgin, circa 1749, by Jean Marc Nattier. 

Louise Henriette de Bourbon was the first wife of Louis Philippe I, duc d'Orleans. Her marriage was intended to help heal the rift between the Bourbon-Condé and Orleans families--a feud which had its source in Henriette's grandmother and great-aunt, both daughters of Louis XIV and the marquise de Montespan.

In this particular painting by Nattier, Madame Henriette--in the prime of her youth, at only 23 years of age--is depicted as Vestal Virgin.

Women were often portrayed as Vestal Virgins in paintings to emphasize their morality, beauty, chastity and innocence. Royal women such was Elizabeth I, Madame Elisabeth and even Marie Antoinette were portrayed as Vestal Virgins at least once in their lifetimes. 

The choice of Henriette as a Vestal Virgin may have been seen as ironic by her contemporaries. Although Henriette's reputation before her marriage was relatively pristine--she was raised in a convent and thus far nothing had marred her image at court--her scandalous behavior quickly led to a downfall in her reputation. She was rumored to have indulged in scandalous affairs--so many, in fact, that her father-in-law was said to have contested the paternity of her children. She gave birth to three children--only two of whom, the future Philippe-Égalité and Louise Marie Thérèse Bathilde, survived infancy. She died in February of 1759 at the age of 32; her exact cause of death is unknown, but the rumor mill at court attributed her early death as a consequence of her "debaucheries."

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A marble mantel clock, circa 1784, by Jean Antoine Lepin and Etienne Martincourt.

This ornate mantel clock was ordered by Madame Adelaide and Madame Victoire de France, the remainder of the 'Mesdames,' daughters of Louis XV, for the summer reception room at the Chateau de Bellevue. Bellevue was their favorite retreat and after the ascension of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to the throne, the aunts often retreated to their chateau, which was later said to have been one of the "hotbeds" of the anti-Antoinette gossip mill. The clock was delivered to the chateau in the summer of 1786; the two aging Mesdames would not get to enjoy their exquisite timepiece for many more summers.

Unusually, the piece was not sold in the mass government estate sales which sold off much of the collections of the royal palaces, but instead remained in the government's collections until 1808. In 1808, Napoleon gifted the clock to Jean-Jacques-Régis de Cambacérè, who in turn sold the piece in 1816 to the dowager duchesse d'Orleans. It remained in various French collections until the 1930s, when it was acquired by Anna Thomson Dodge, who gifted the item to the museum in memory of her late husband. 


Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A portrait of Anne Marie Louise Nicole de Lamoignon de Malesherbes, circa 1751, by Jean Valade.

Anne Marie Louise Nicole, also known as the comtesse de Sénozan, was one of several daughters of Guillaume de Lamoignon and sister to the famous William Christian Guillaume Lamoignon-Malesherbes, who defended Louis XVI at his trial. This portrait, completed when she was about 33 years old, depicts her in a red gown trimmed with rich furs and a cascade of fine lace peeking out from her sleeves.

Anne married Jean Antoine Olivier de Sénozan in 1735; they had only one child, Antoine Francoise, who died in 1769. Antoine had one child, a daughter named Sabine, who was executed in July of 1794. 

She decided against emigration during the revolution due to her advanced age; however, she was arrested in 1793 due to her connections with former emigres and, most likely, her brother's decision to defend Louis XVI. Due to a lack of space in local prisons, she was kept under house imprisonment until April of 1794 when she was transferred elsewhere.

In May, the comtesse was brought to trial with a group of other prisoners, including the king's sister Madame Elisabeth. All were sentenced to death for "conspiracy against the Revolution." Anne Marie, along with all the other female prisoners who accompanied the princess to the scaffold, curtsied to the princess and asked to kiss her before walking up the scaffold steps. Anne Marie was 75 years old when she was executed.


image: my photograph

A bust of Louis XVI, 1796, by Robert Lazzarini. I wish I could provide more commentary but unfortunately there is not much information--and by "not much" I mean "zilch!" about this artist on the web. Still, I love seeing this bust of Louis XVI clustered with a few remnants of his family--it is currently displayed alongside the commode of Madame Elisabeth and the mantel clock of his aunts.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A commode for the apartments of Madame Elisabeth, 1783, by Jean-Henri Riesener. This commode, or chest, was first commissioned for the apartments of Madame Elisabeth at the Chateau de Fontainebleau. It remained in the princess' collection until 1786, when it was transferred to Louis XVI's apartments at Fontainebleau. The reason for this transfer is not clear--did Madame Elisabeth tire of her furnishings? Or perhaps she was transferring her favorite pieces to her retreat at Montreuil and giving the rest to family members? 

Whatever the specific history... I must admit that this is one of my favorite pieces at the DIA. I know, I know! It's a chest of drawers. Perhaps neither Madame Elisabeth or Louis XVI ever touched it, or noticed it. (But perhaps they did!) There is just something about the simpleness of the object which is what continually draws me to it whenever I visit the Detroit Institute of Arts. All of these pieces, and so many more, feel like old (in most cases, very old!) friends who have been waiting for a visit. What a shame if they were sold off like so much junk at a yard sale.





 














Quick Treasure: A watercolor postcard of the Temple of Love

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A picture is worth a thousand words! In the next few weeks I'll be sharing a series of Quick Treasures, such as portrait details, vintage postcard scans, and more.

Today I'd love to share one of my favorite postcards from my collection, a watercolor postcard of the Temple of Love at the Petit Trianon. I'm usually wary of the "painted" postcards that became popular in the 1930s-50s--some of them tend to have an odd traced-over look about them. But the soft, romantic feel of this particular postcard is why it is currently framed and sitting on my bookshelf.

image: my collection
 


Even More Costumes from the Devonshire Costume Ball of 1897

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Last month, I made a post about the elaborate "Marie Antoinette" costume worn by Frances Evelyn, countess of Warwick, to the extravagant Devonshire costume ball of 1897. But Frances--popularly known as Daisy--was not the only fashionable attendee to chose a figure from the world of Marie Antoinette. Here are a few of the more sumptuous, rich and glittering costumes that brought a little 18th century into the Devonshire ball.

 image: Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, as the princesse de Lamballe
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, was the Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Victoria from 1885 to 1901. She chose to don the guise of the Princesse de Lamballe, the murdered friend and confidante of Marie Antoinette. Perhaps her choice was inspired by her own loyalty to her sovereign, Queen Victoria? Her costume was created by Alias of London, and was described in The Echo's report of the elaborte event as a "...brocade of blue and gold, underdress of blue satin trimmed with real Louis XV lace. Coiffure poudre, with feathers and diamonds."

image: Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes as Elisabeth Christine of Austria
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes, later Mrs. William Dodge James, as Elisabeth Christine of Austria. Elisabeth Christine, who married Archduke Karl of Austria in 1708, was the mother of the future Maria Theresa. Evelyn's gown was described in The Court Journal as a "...costume of stiff silver tissue, through which glimmered an underdress of antique cerise taffeta. The reproduction was quite a chef-d'oeuvre; the long pointed corsage being enhanced by priceless point lace entwined with roses in palest pink; those flowers, in various sizes, were scattered over the entire toilette and gave to it a charming pre-Raphaelite effect."

 
image: Georgian Elizabeth, Countess Howe, as Queen Marie Leczinska
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Georgiana Elizabeth, Countess Howe, chose Queen Marie Leczinska, the consort of Louis XV, for her costume. Marie Leczinska, a devout Catholic, was the longest serving queen consort of France.

image: Theresa Susey Helen as Maria Theresa
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Theresa Susey Helen, Marchioness of Londonderry, chose the incomparable Maria Theresa of Austria for the ball. Her costume, described in The Queen, was a glittering marvel: "...gown of richest cream satin, copied from a picture in South Kensington Museum, beautifully embroidered in shades of gold and pearls. Stomacher of magnificent diamonds, with ropes of pearls festooned on each side. Train of rich cream acanthus leaf brocade, fastened on the left shoulder with a huge diamond buckle, and at the waist with another, and edged with thick silver cord. Necklace of pear shaped pearls, with another diamond necklace above, and a diamond crown." Theresa also wore the famous Londonderry Tiara, which used real diamonds, pearls and other jewels. 
 
The Devonshire costume ball of 1897 was a veritable "who's who" of London society in the 19th century. Ladies and gentlemen alike wanted to make a fashionable splash that would surely guarantee them a spot--and a long paragraph--in the weekly society papers. Diamonds, pearls, rich fabrics and gowns that cost a fortune were the rule--not the exception!
 
If you were transported into the elegant heights of 19th century high society, what figure would you choose for the Devonshire costume ball? 
 
 





Le costume historique: Les adieux à la reine/Farewell My Queen.

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image: Le costume historique

An interesting post to share! A brief look (French text) on Le costume historique about the inaccuracy of the costumes and fashion of Benoit Jacquot's Les adieux à la reine/Farewell My Queen.

The costumes in the film were beautiful to look at, but certain aspects--such as the wig Diane Kruger can be seen wearing in the image on the left--looked like they belonged in a lower budget TV drama. With so much attention put on trying to recreate the atmosphere of Versailles, trying to "resurrect the ghost" of its final days... why overlook such an important part of its life?


Barbie Travels to the 18th Century

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image: detail of 'Barbie as Marie Antoinette'
credit: ioffer.com [defunct link] 

Perhaps no fictional woman has taken the fashion world by storm quite like Barbara Millicent Roberts--better known as Barbie. Since her introduction in 1959, Barbie has draped herself in every style you could possibly think of--and some styles no one has ever seen before! From snazzy 60s outfits (complete with gogo boots!) to glamorous, Vegas-style Bob Mackie fantasies to romantic Oscar de la Renta ballgowns... Barbie is no stranger to switching up her style at the drop of a miniature silk hat. You could say that her love of style makes her a fictional rival for the other Queen of Fashion--Marie Antoinette. Although Marie Antoinette (to my scholarly knowledge) never dressed up in go-go boots, she--like Barbie--also dressed to impress.

Barbie has had many careers, costumes and gimmicks over the years. She has even traveled back in time! One of Barbie's many stops is the 18th century, where she has donned the guise of an English aristocrat, a pastoral shepherdess--and even Queen Marie Antoinette herself. Let's stick a feather in Barbie's inch-high pouf and take a look at some of Barbie's forays into the Age of Enlightenment.

Madame du Barbie

 credit: ©Mattel

Madame du Barbie, designed by Bob Mackie, was a limited edition release which found its way into the gilded shelves of Barbie collectors on New Year's Day, 1997. "There are a lot of people at Versailles today," indeed! Madame du Barbie wears an ice-blue gown made from brocade, studded with beads and jewels and rococo-style embroidery. It reminds me of the large, stiffer 18th century costumes which were particularly popular in 1930s-40s Hollywood films. Elegant and sparkling! 


Her pouf is accented with an elegant beaded headdress as well as her large, striking collar covered in icy sequins. In true extravagant (though not historical) fashion, it reaches far above her heaven-ascending hair. A demure side glance completes her coquettish look. 

Madame du Barbie would certainly have made a splash at Versailles!

Fair Valentine Barbie

 credit: ©Mattel

Fair Valentine Barbie, a special edition released in 1998, is a lovely interpretation of a portrait by the famous Jacques-Louis David. The portrait, commissioned by its sitter, Mademoiselle Guimard, is a wonderful example of the romantic, pastoral fantasy paintings that were all the rage in 18th century France.

image: A portrait of Mademoiselle Guimard by Jacques-Louis David
 credit:  ©Christie's Auction House

Fair Valentine Barbie wears a pink and blue shepherdess-style dress with a delicate lace apron. Although the Barbie rendition of the painting is sadly missing a beribboned hat, her updo coiffure adorned with a pink flower completes her romantic garden gown. 

It is easy to imagine this doll sitting amongst bouquets of flowers or delicately milking a cow in a countryside dairy.

Duchess Emma

 credit: ©Mattel

Duchess Emma Barbie, released as a limited edition in 2003, was the third and final doll in the exclusive Portrait Collection series. Each doll in the series was inspired by various historical portraits, complete with packaging that resembled a stunning shadowbox frame. Duchess Emma Barbie is inspired by various 1770s-1780s portraits which featured softer lines, more pastel colors, and a more relaxed and natural look for the subjects.  

image: A portrait of Sophia Charlotte, Lady Sheffield by Thomas Gainsborough

The floor-length gown worn by Duchess Emma Barbie is made from a velvet jacket with green and blue trim over a powder blue stain skirt and bodice. A flowing white chiffon scarf, popularly used by artists such as Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun, compliments her chiffon fichu and floral bodice accent. Her delicate coiffure, complete with ringlets, is topped with an elegant hat and fashionable feather.

Can you imagine this stunning portrait Barbie doll hanging on your wall?



"Little Theater" Marie Antoinette

credit: my collection

In 1964, Mattel decided to treat Ken to some spotlight time with a proposed fashion line called Little Theatre, which was to feature matching costumes for Barbie and Ken. The above card depicts the Marie Antoinette and "Louis XIV" set. Both costumes featured delicate details, such as gold trim or fashionable ribbons, which made for a rather extravagant costume-fashion set! Unfortunately, the Little Theatre collection did not move past the prototype stage. Fortunately, an avid Ken fan was on hand to capture an image of the prototype costumes on display at the 2006 National Barbie Convention.

 

Marie Antoinette

 credit: ©Mattel

Extravagant, sumptuous--just two words that easily describe Mattel's crème de la crème of 18th century inspired Barbie dolls. I am speaking, of course, about the classic "Marie Antoinette" doll, released as part of the Women of Royalty series in 2003. The doll originally retailed for $249.00 but today it easily reaches prices of $600-$1000+ on the secondhand market. With the level of detail and the quality of this doll, it is not difficult to see why. 

image: A court portrait of Marie-Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun

Marie Antoinette Barbie is inspired by a court portrait by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun.  Her sumptous, regal blue gown is adorned with delicate lace, golden trim and silk bows. These relatively simple adornments only enhance the beauty of the dress, which is complimented by a matching hat topped with white feathers. Her necklace is a shocking detail for many Marie Antoinette enthusiasts, who are quick to notice its provenance: it is a replica of the necklace from the infamous "Affair of the Necklace." I think it adds a certain touch of dangerous decadence to this Barbie's classic court elegance.

I cannot hope to do this doll justice with my descriptions... I'll end with some detailed shots (and oh, how I wish they were my own photographs!) of "the" Marie Antoinette Barbie.





Which 18th century Barbie strikes your fancy the most?


Marie Antoinette and the Boredom-Busting Barbie Makeover

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I was exceptionally bored (and exceptionally procrastinating--or maybe not so exceptionally) and decided to work on a quick photo-manipulation I posted on myTumblr blog. I couldn't quite get Marie Antoinette's hair to that light shade of Barbie blonde, but such is Photoshop!



Quick Treasure: Madame du Barry by Sir William Russell Flint

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Sir William Russell Flint (1880 - 1969) was a Scottish illustrator who is best known for his paintings, illustrations and drawings of beautiful women. His most popular works were inspired by a visit Flint took to Spain, where he was impressed by the beauty and skill of Spanish dancers. But Flint also dabbled in soft, romantic historical portraits--which, like his paintings of Spanish dancers, were sometimes derided by art critics as being 'harshly eroticized.'

This portrait, titled 'Ray as Madame Du Barry,' features a beautiful woman--perhaps a model favored by Flint?--dressed as the illustrious Madame du Barry, last mistress of Louis XV.


image: 'Ray as Madame du Barry' by Sir William Russell Flint.
credit: hauk sven on Flickr


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